Crafting Home With Hussein Chalayan (2022)

Hussein Chalayan’s work has always been about blurring lines, whether they’re the invisible ones between different forms of artistic expression, or literal borders between countries and cultures. The London-based designer, who grew up in Cyprus and came to the UK at the age of eight due to the ethnic conflicts shaking his home country, has mastered drawing from precisely these dualities and differences, with a notion of flux accompanying his fabrics right from the beginning — his graduate fashion show at Central Saint Martins in 1993.

Chalayan’s offering, titled “The Tangent Flows”, consisted of garments he had buried in a friend’s back garden for months, letting a kind of uncontrollable force take control of transforming the pieces. Twenty-five years, two British Designer of the Year wins, and an MBE award later, the designer is still at the forefront of embedding a profound sense of shift and change into his work. For AW 18, he chose unintegrated immigration within the European landscape as the theme of his mens- and womenswear collections, a topic that couldn’t be more timely given the continent’s current political climate. While other designers might look to nebulous history books to kickstart their creativity, Chalayan focuses on issues of the now, continuously referencing his own journey as a young boy as much as larger cultural movements.

It’s this unparalleled self-reflection that quickly made Chalayan a favourite of the fashion press, praised as a distinctly intellectual and thoughtful designer, one who can express himself through short films or by creating the wardrobe for one of Mozart’s operas in Berlin, just as poignantly as he does with clothing. Through his creativity and collections, Chalayan has often prompted his audience to try to comprehend fashion through the world around it. Fittingly, he is now providing the next generation of aspiring designers with this knowledge through his appointment as the Head of Fashion at the Institute of Design at the University of Applied Arts Vienna. It’s a role that, in the designer’s true tireless manner, only makes him more eager to continuously explore the state and future of fashion. INDIE spoke to Chalayan about the value of learning — at university, about the industry and, most importantly, about oneself.

Crafting Home With Hussein Chalayan (1)

Strikingly, some of the overarching themes of your collections still are movement, transformation and transition. Would you also describe yourself as someone who is quite restless?
Yes and no. I’m generally not restless but I do work a lot, so yes, I am always doing something and I do continuously need something new. I wouldn’t say I’m restless in particular, I would say I am stable but I do get bored quickly.

So how do you ensure your mind stays occupied?
I’m a curious person. I think curiosity is a big saviour for us, for all of us. Curiosity keeps you going, it makes you do new things, makes you explore new things. There’s a lot to discover in the world, even if you’re eighty or ninety, you still have a lot to learn. I always have a project on the go, there’s always something new — so I think curiosity is a very good one here.

Looking at our broader cultural landscape, like you so often do through fashion, what would you say evokes your curiosity right now?
It’s hard to say because new things are happening all the time. But essentially, I’m very interested in cultural prejudice, I’m very interested in technology — in fashion, I think one of the most exciting things happening right now is the engagement with technology — and also I’m interested in anthropology and how today’s world is affected by history. I’m constantly observing and I’m constantly working myself to death, so my projects become a means to understand these new issues, and to re-propose them at the same time in my own way. So it’s a combination of proposing and re-proposing what I see, and understanding it at the same time.

There’re a lot of problems in the world with intolerance and lack of acceptance of differences, and I would say that now I’m in a chapter where I’m interested in these kinds of prejudices and how I can turn this interest of mine into clothing. Why differences occur or how people, if they don’t know something, react to it in a fearful way. I think with all the world events, there are a lot of ingredients right now to really look at. What I also find interesting is that there are many designers coming from geographies that you would not expect, and they’re achieving something, and I think this is a very new thing in fashion: you’re hearing about these designers that are not from known fashion countries necessarily.

With the 21st century fast approaching, Chalayan equally looked to the idea of speed: for AW 99 he used the interiors of cars and planes as the base for his dresses, which could even move and open parts of their construction on their own just like their vehicular counterparts, making his audience ponder topics such as movement and well-being.

Your own geographical background has also always played an important role in your work. Was exploring your roots through your collections similarly a means to make sense of the world around you?
It’s my reality, so I can’t really say it’s so mechanical. I observe within the space I’m in and try to create new proposals on various ideas through my work. But it’s not something manufactured. I think that if you’re from a bicultural or tri-cultural background, it’s obviously a really important situation — but I don’t think everyone knows how to use it. What’s allowed me to use it is being in London, because London is so multicultural and so open to other ways of thinking and encourages it. But London is also pleasantly separate from the background I’m from, so I can look at it from a distance in a much more objective way. Being in London has allowed me to use my cultural background in an exciting way but I don’t think that just because you’re born into this tri-cultural or multicultural background you necessarily know how to use it. It’s based on the person but it’s the environment as well.

Did you always define London as your home? Or were there times when figuring out where you belonged was a bit more intricate?
I was raised in London, so London is really my home, so to speak. But I also realised that it doesn’t have to be literally a house or a country. It’s either a particular zone of exploration, if I’m in a particular place or I’m with people I like, that I feel complete with, or it could be a combination of the two — it varies, but a home is a place where you’re content. It’s where you’re happy, hubs of happiness. So I guess home for me, in that context, is where you feel content.
If it doesn’t have to be a literal place, could it also be the internet for you? I’m wondering because you’re an avid explorer of technology yet distinctly absent from social media. Apart from your label’s Instagram account, run by your team, you don’t use it in any personal way.

Social media on one hand is a great tool to communicate, but on another level I think that it creates so many kinds of data and information data that there is a sense of entitlement for people. They think they know something because they’ve seen it, but I don’t think that’s necessarily understanding, because seeing doesn’t mean that you understand. There’s confusion between the exposure to the data, user knowledge and actually really proper knowledge — those are different things. The internet is an amazing world, a library, but you still have to really read about things like in the past, because then you’ve sort of earned that knowledge. Otherwise it’s just kind of there, you know about it superficially because you just think, “Oh, I’m gonna google that term.” So a lot of these things that we think we know are based on very much digital knowledge, I’m not sure if it actually sits in your brain or not.

Crafting Home With Hussein Chalayan (4)

That notion of “digital knowledge” is quite interesting because we’re supposed to be in an “age of knowledge” yet, at the same time, profound engagement with particular topics often seems rare — it literally doesn’t go deeper than the surface, the screen. Do you think that’s something that’s also quite ubiquitous in the fashion industry at the moment — a kind of fakeness, of pretentiousness?
There definitely are a lot of designers that are doing it for very short periods of time and then start realising that it’s very hard, and then they’re stopping. But fashion is about commitment, it’s a very serious craft. For me, celebrity designers, for example, have cheapened the fashion discourse, because I think, in a way, they’re going into it without knowing about fashion, they’re hiring other designers. And then that’s just seen as authentic and gets compared to other people. I wish that every designer or every house could have their own kind of territory and be respected for that, then I would think that there’s room for every- one, even celebrity fashion. But what’s happening is that people who are not trained are put into the same league as people that are trained, and there’s no measure, so it’s kind of that lack of measure and lack of proper understanding that frustrates me.

Because this indicates that people aren’t taking fashion seriously? They’re not treating the craft with the respect it deserves?
I guess it has to do with the fact that there’s proper discourse in other areas — like in the art world and the architecture world, you couldn’t just become a designer overnight, or an architect overnight, or an artist overnight, you have to devote a lot of time, whereas in fashion, it’s just far too easy, which means it kind of cheapens people that have put in all the work and that have had the education. It’s kind of that cheapening element that I’m not happy about.

Some of your contemporaries — Martin Margiela or Helmut Lang, for example — have stopped practising precisely because of this change in the industry. You’re one of the few trailblazing designers of the 90s still helming their own fashion house.

Crafting Home With Hussein Chalayan (5)

What keeps you going in spite of the issues we talked about?
Well, I still feel I have a lot more to learn and to achieve — and I went into this as a long-time journey, I didn’t go into this for a short-term exercise. So I still feel that I have a lot more to achieve and to discover, that’s the reason.

Was this desire to learn what equally drove you towards fashion and studying at Central Saint Martins in the first place?
Initially I was going to study architecture because that’s what my family was encouraging me to do [laughs], but I really wanted to work with the body much more closely, so I was very excited about any idea that I had around the body. I think it was just this thing that you can make something, and then the body kind of animates it, brings it to life. And I guess the connection to architecture is the same, you create life within the building by living in it, and the way you punctuate it. So for me, it was about how I could create new punctuation with the clothes around the body, and how then the body can engage with those punctuations. So, yes, it’s the sheer excitement for that, to be honest.

When looking back on your studies, were they quite different to how you perceive fashion education now as the Head of Fashion at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna?
Yes, this was before education was about taking in students who are able to pay high fees, so the numbers were very small, there were only thirteen people in my class. And we were all individuals, we all had our own territories and we all respected each other. And I think one of the most important things for me was that I really went to an art school where fashion happened to be a department, it really wasn’t a fashion school. Fashion was another department, so it meant that you were able to engage with other students in the university, and I think that your work became richer because you were able to share ideas with other people, other departments.

Crafting Home With Hussein Chalayan (6)

I suppose it was less about fashion as a business, and more about fashion as an idea.
Yes, definitely! In our time there were no such courses — that happened a little shortly after, so you would study fashion and marketing and be aware of certain business issues, but it came later on in the course. It was very much about creativity, and, in hindsight, I think that’s how it should’ve been, because it was the last time you could really have creative freedom and not worry about the business side. And I think that creative people’s roles are to create these new perspectives of looking, and maybe even new perspectives of looking at the obvious. It might be that you look at a piece of work from someone, a garment or a painting or a picture, and it might be that it makes you think differently about something that you already know. So I think our role as creatives is to do exactly that, it’s to make people think out of the box or frame things in a different way. It’s about opening channels — to hopefully inspire people to think more openly.

(Video) HUSSEIN CHALAYAN - AUTUMN / WINTER 2000 FINAL

Is there a “right way” to approach fashion? What is the most crucial lesson you want your students to take away from your course in this respect?
No, there’s no one right way to do it. I have students that really love fashion, that if you didn’t know them you might think they’re a “fashion victim”. Then there are others that are very technical, or ones that are much more artistic — there’re so many different kinds of ways of working. But I think the most important thing is to help them develop skills, and then for me to guide them. You can’t just love fashion, you’ve got to develop a way of working, or something that you feel happy doing, so that you’re more likely to get a job afterwards.

Secondly, I think that you’ve got to have individuality. I think it’s very important that our students are individuals, that they really have their own voice, each one, and they don’t compare themselves to others. And then, thirdly, I think that they have to put in all the hours. You have to work hard, you can’t really achieve things just by having an idea, you’ve got to make it happen as well. And then, also, I think that you’ve got to be a multi-talented person, you’ve got to be someone that’s interested in the world and not just fashion. Fashion is a part of culture, so you’ve got to read, you’ve got to know about art, you’ve got to know about art history, fashion history — there are so many things that you’ve got to feed yourself with.

So, in order to be, in my opinion, a sort of better designer, or a better stylist, or a better whatever role you have in fashion, I think you’ve got to be aware of the world as a whole and not just fashion on its own. I think these days it’s very old-fashioned to think that all students have to become stars, because it doesn’t suit everyone to be a star designer. Some students are really better at other areas so it’s very important, as much as possible, that we encourage our students to grow in a way that suits them, and not try to turn them into something they’re not.

(Video) Crafted in the UK: Fashion Classics

Taken fromINDIE NO 60,THE HOME ISSUE –get your copy here.

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FAQs

What techniques does Hussein Chalayan use? ›

Using digital fabrication techniques such as laser cutting that creates these perfectly shaped wooden circular pieces, Chalayan was able to create a structure which can continuously transform from object to garment, garment to object.

What is Hussein Chalayan inspired by? ›

Although his designs are unique and cutting edge, Chalayan gained inspiration from avant-garde designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Issey Miyake and from experimental designers Pierre Cardin, Alexander McQueen, and Elsa Schiaparelli.

What is the relationship between art and fashion? ›

Over the past few decades, art and fashion have become two synonymous outlets for expression. Our bodies to clothing are what canvases are to an artist and their brush. Each garment is like a brushstroke, with different fits conveying certain styles.

Do you consider fashion design as an art Why or why not? ›

To answer the question, fashion is definitely art. You have to be creative and artistic to make clothes that other people want to wear. It connects us and helps us to express ourselves, just like painting and drawing.

What materials did Hussein Chalayan use? ›

Like the original, it is made of a composite material created from fiberglass and resin cast in a specially designed mold. Also like the original, it has side and rear flaps that open to reveal a mass of frothy pink tulle.

What happened to Hussein Chalayan? ›

He has won the British Designer of the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000) and was awarded the MBE in 2006. Chalayan is currently teaching at HTW Berlin.

Is Hussein Chalayan Turkish? ›

An exhibition at Shanghai's Power Station of Design museum showcased 130 pieces of work by British, Turkish-Cypriot fashion designer Hussein Chalayan that explore his career, themes of race, culture and migration.

Is there a relationship between art and craft? ›

Craft denotes a form of work, involving the creation of physical objects, by the use of hands and brain. Art relies on artistic merit whereas craft is based on learned skills and technique. Art is well known for serving an aesthetic purpose. On the other hand, craft serves human objectives.

How art and craft influenced fashion? ›

What did the Arts and Crafts movement offer the world of fashion? Not only craft production, natural motifs and a new style of jewellery but also a more modern template for women's clothes. The Arts and Crafts movement was driven more by a belief in a set of principles, than by developing a particular style.

Why is creativity important in fashion? ›

Fashion is all about creativity The more and more person's work is unique and creative, the more the work will be highlighted. Every buyer wants unique collections and those unique collections come from creative minds.

Can I do fashion design if I cant draw? ›

The question is: Do I need to know how to draw to start a clothing brand? The short direct answer is No, you can start and run a successful brand without knowing how to draw, but for your sake and in the end, for the brand – yes it would help a lot if you could visualize your ideas.

Do fashion designers make the clothes or just design them? ›

Fashion designers create all the clothing and accessories in the world purchased every year by consumers. Fashion designers study fashion trends, design all the clothing and accessories, pattern cut, select colours and fabrics, make up or oversee the final production of their designs.

Can fashion design be a hobby? ›

Fashion design is a hobby that many people have, but for those who are just starting out, figuring out how exactly to start this new hobby can be a difficult task. Make sure that you get the best start as a beginner fashion designer by paying close attention to and trying out some of these handy tips.

What materials does Christopher Kane use? ›

Balloons, rubber, liquid, food. These might not be the first materials that come to mind when you think of sex, but Christopher Kane's Autumn/Winter 2019-20 collection was a dive into the wacky world of niche fetishists. Leather and latex carried the erotic tone, giving sleaziness a high fashion update.

What did Madison Maxey invent? ›

Nylon is created through a process called interfacial polymerization. Using this process, Maddy created nylon fibers where conductive particles are synthesized into Nylon during polymerization.

What are the three types of craft? ›

Textile, Decorative, Paper, Functional, and Fashion Crafts

Crafting includes a variety of art forms, from sculpture and metalwork to knitting and printing. These crafts can all be divided into five basic types based on their form and purpose: textile, decorative, paper, functional, and fashion crafts.

Why craft is so important? ›

Art and craft activities give kids a sense of achievement and allow them to take pride in their work which builds confidence. Making art is a great, safe way to discover that it's okay to make mistakes and that getting things 'wrong' can lead you to a whole new idea.

Why craft is important in design? ›

Experiences in art, craft and design enable them to learn how to reflect critically on their own and others' work. They learn to think and act as artists, makers and designers, working creatively and intelligently.

Why craft is important in culture? ›

In many ways, a civilizations intangible cultural heritage is linked to its traditional forms of craftsmanship. They tell stories of lives lived, of past, of a way of being. Crafts signify the evolution of existence, they point us towards the role of rituals and traditions.

What is the concept of art and craft? ›

Arts and crafts comprise a whole host of activities and hobbies that are related to making things with one's own hands and skill. These can be sub-divided into handicrafts or "traditional crafts" (doing things the old way) and the rest.

What are 3 reasons why creativity is important? ›

Contents show
  • 1 Creativity Allows Us to Express Our Feelings.
  • 2 Creativity Helps You Solve Problems.
  • 3 Creativity Makes You Happier and More Content.
  • 4 Creativity Helps Survive in Troubled Times.
  • 5 Creativity Boosts Your Self-Confidence.
  • 6 Creativity Can Help You Live Longer.
  • 7 Creativity Can Improve Your Brain.
20 Dec 2021

Is creativity important in design? ›

Creativity is important in design because it allows for a wide range of expression and innovation. It can help designers to come up with new ideas and solutions, as well as communicate their ideas more effectively.

How do I get into design with no experience? ›

How to find design jobs with no experience
  1. Get internships. ...
  2. Pursue volunteer opportunities. ...
  3. Expand your network. ...
  4. Build your social media presence. ...
  5. Make a list of dream jobs. ...
  6. Find freelance opportunities. ...
  7. Find a mentor. ...
  8. Work on your portfolio.
7 Dec 2021

Can I be a fashion designer without knowing how do you sew? ›

Designers aren't required to know how to sew. Their job is to have the creative vision for the collection as a whole and for each piece and design detail.

What is a female fashion designer called? ›

What is another word for fashion designer?
tailorcouturier
suit makergarment maker
designerstylist
costumercouturiere
tailoressneedlewoman
10 more rows

Who is No 1 fashion designer in the world? ›

Top 10 Famous Fashion Designers
  • Donatella Versace (Born 1955) Donatella Francesca Versace is an Italian fashion designer. ...
  • Giorgio Armani (Born 1934) ...
  • Ralph Lauren (Born 1939) ...
  • Tom Ford (Born 1961) ...
  • Marc Jacobs (Born 1963) ...
  • Donna Karan (Born 1948) ...
  • Christian Dior (1905-1957) ...
  • Stella McCartney (Born 1971)

What do you call a person who designs clothes? ›

Definitions of clothes designer. someone who designs clothing. synonyms: couturier, designer, fashion designer.

What are 5 skills that you need to have to be a successful fashion designer? ›

A. To become a fashion designer, you need skills like creativity and proactivity, interpersonal skills, eagerness to succeed, good sewing skills, communication skills, business skills, leadership skills, and adaptability to dynamic trends.

Can you design clothes without a degree? ›

If you have the talent and skills, you can earn a role as a fashion designer without having a college degree. To succeed as a fashion designer without earning a formal education, you need to independently acquire all of the skills you would typically learn in a classroom.

What is the role of art in fashion? ›

Fashion and art are two disciplines that revolve around the same sphere, which is creativity. The two worlds share a bridge that links the two together. Art in its own aspect has followed humanity through its times and the world of fashion has also been synonymous to it. The two mediums share a close relationship.

What is the difference between art and fashion? ›

Fashion is a wearable form of art. The process that goes into creating the clothing that melds to our bodies involves various stages of conceptualization, and ultimately leads to creating the 'work. ' Both of these are creative processes.

What does fashion mean in art? ›

Fashion design is a form of art dedicated to the creation of clothing and other lifestyle accessories. Modern fashion design is divided into two basic categories: haute couture and ready-to-wear. The haute couture collection is dedicated to certain customers and is custom sized to fit these customers exactly.

What is the importance of art in clothing? ›

Fashion uses art, analogous to history, as a visual model for its contemporary interpretation. The elevated position that is given to the fine arts in occidental culture is employed by fashion to raise the cultural capital of its creations.

What is the 7 elements of fashion design? ›

So these were the seven basic elements of design – form, shape, line, color, texture, typography, and space. These various elements can make your piece successful when used right.

Is fashion important in our life? ›

Why is Fashion Important? Fashion is important because it reflects the culture of a country. It makes our life colourful and changes our life with time. In a way it also adds variety to life, providing an opportunity in trying out something new.

How many types of art do we have? ›

The seven different art forms are Painting, Sculpture, Literature, Architecture, Theater, Film, and Music. However, back in the day, the seven different art forms were called the Liberal Arts, consisting of Grammar, Logic, Rhetoric, Arithmetic, Geometry, Astronomy, and Music.

What is a fashion drawing called? ›

In the world of fashion design, a croquis is a quick sketch of a fashion figure. The word can also refer to the practice of drawing live models. Croquis drawings are minimalist in style and serve as a blank canvas for drawing clothing.

Can you be a fashion designer without drawing? ›

You do not have to know how to draw to be a fashion designer or create your fashion designs. In fact, it is required within the industry that you are able to create digital designs at some point in the design process. Using Digital Fashion Pro allows you to create your designs without knowing how to draw.

What are the 7 types of fashion? ›

There are seven (7) dressing styles:
  • Classic.
  • Relaxed.
  • Dramatic.
  • Creative.
  • Rebellious.
  • Feminine.
  • Elegant Chic.

What are the 4 elements of fashion? ›

The four basic ingredients or elements of design used in fashion are shape or silhouette, line, colour and texture. A silhouette can be described as the outline of the entire garment. This is the most obvious visual element of the garment.

Why are they called fashion houses? ›

The expression "fashion house" is often used in the apparel industry. It is also defined as a fashionable clothes company: a business that designs, makes, and sells fashionable clothes that are typically associated with an important designer, or a company that designs news styles of expensive clothes.

How does clothing affect your image? ›

Clothing that doesn't fit well or fails to flatter one's silhouette can lead to a poor body image, and that can do significant damage to one's self-esteem. Wearing clothing designed to complement your unique figure, will help you can experience improved body image and confidence.

Can you use art on clothing? ›

This is a very sweeping question and the answer will depend on the specific circumstances. But for a safe answer: you can print anything on a t-shirt that is under public domain without infringing copyright laws. Public domain includes artworks that have expired from their copyright.

Why is quality of clothing important? ›

Quality Clothing Holds Up Well

Great styles that hold up well over time ultimately mean that you'll end up buying fewer items, and buying them less often. This will result in less waste and fewer clothing items being thrown away due to faded colors, rips or tears on the fabric, general wear, and more.

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